Fish Head Soup

As I mentioned in earlier posts, I had the opportunity to travel globally for internal company business. People who have not traveled internationally for business may envision glamorous accommodations to exotic locales. Better meals, free drinks and more comfortable seats in business class are nice, however 20+ hours in an airplane to the other side of the world is still not the most pleasant day of my life.

Going on a romantic vacation to Bora Bora would make coach seats enjoyable, as I looked forward to days spent with my wife in a tropical paradise. I cannot say the same about traveling on business to Tokyo, Hong Kong, Singapore, or any of a half dozen other locations. Instead of looking forward to days spent relaxing while enjoying the tourist sights of an exotic locale, I have hotel and conference rooms ahead of me.

After a few trips, the differences between Singapore and London begin to fade as the conference and hotel rooms of one locale blur with those of the other. The one differentiating fact is the local cuisine.

I look forward to bonding with my foreign co-workers over lunch or dinner at their choice of local restaurant. While I cannot say I have been a fan of every local delicacy (bangers and mash comes to mind), I have found some that are very enjoyable.

I do find it interesting how rapidly American cuisine has spread and the relative status attached to it. I can remember in Singapore being asked by a group going to lunch that "as a special treat for me, their guest" was going to the all you can eat pizza buffet at their new Pizza Hut. On another occasion, a senior executive in Hong Kong schedule an outing to Olive Garden. And there was no lack of invitations to Outback.

This became so prevalent that I mentioned in passing to Daniel (a peer in IT) that I really enjoyed sampling local cuisine. A few days later, Daniel asked me to join him for lunch. He took me to a small outdoor café in his kampong. The menu was in Mandarin so he said to leave it to him to order.

A few minutes later he returned with a large tray full of items. The first of which shocked and honestly revolted me slightly - fish head soup. I understand this is a local dish and serving it with a full small fish head in the bowl is considered an honor. But being an American, I do not like my food looking back at me.

Not wanting to offend, I tried the soup, eating the rice noodles and small slices of meat. I just could not bring myself to eat the actual head. The soup is very spicy but tasty. I would enjoy eating it again and can recommend it - just hold the head please.

Recipe for Singapore Fish Head Noodle Soup

Ingredients:

750g "Batang" fish head, cut into 1 ½ x 1 inch slices
250g thin rice noodles or laksa noodles (soaked, cooked in boiling water, drained)
2 slices of ginger, shredded
80g spring onion (cut into sections)
• 1 tomato cut into quarters
• 1 litre water
• 2 red chillies (seeded & chopped)
• Dash of pepper
• Dash of sesame oil
• Enough oil for deep frying

Seasoning:

• 1 tbsp cooking wine or dry sherry
• 1 tbsp oyster sauce
• 1/4 tsp black pepper
• 1 tsp sesame oil
• Salt to taste

Steps:

1. Using a sharp knife, cut and divide fish head into bite-sized portions
2. Heat enough oil in a deep-fryer then add the slices in
3. Deep-fry till golden brown, turning once (2 mins)
4. Remove and drain excess oil
5. Heat about 3 tbsp oil in a wok and brown the ginger slices
6. Add the fish head pieces and 1/2 chives, stir-fry everything (1 min)
7. Remove and set aside
8. Pour water into a pot and bring to a full boil, add tomato
9. Add 1/2 of the spring onions and all the ingredients for the seasoning (salt, oyster sauce, black pepper, sesame oil and cooking wine)
10. Allow the soup to simmer before removing from heat (1 min)
11. Divide cooked noodles into individual bowls, sprinkle with a few drops of sesame oil and pepper on top
12. Arrange pieces of fish head and chillies on noodles
13. Pour hot soup over bowls and serve immediately

The meaning of Hai

The Japanese word hai translates to the English word yes. 

However, it can have a number of other possible connotations.  In her article for The Japan Times, Amy Chavez points out that hai can have a number of other meanings, including being used as a polite term of acknowledgement.

 

I learned the hard way of another meaning...

 

My first trip to Japan was to train the regional engineers in a new technology and discuss with them the global implementation plan, then work with them to develop a regional plan and timeline.  I had spent months developing both the training materials and a general project plan and timeline. 

 

Before traveling to the Asia-Pacific region, I had presented the plan to the North American and Latin American regional engineers.  It seemed to be well received and during the conference we were able collectively to pull together a high-level implementation plan and timeline for these two regions.  At the end of the conference as we wrapped up, I asked "can we do this?" and received resounding "YES" from the attendees.

 

So with two regions successfully on board with the migration plan, I headed off to Tokyo where I would be meeting with 100+ regional network engineers.

I asked "can we do this?" and heard "Hai",
leading me to believe they were onboard.

The training seemed to go well.  I exchanged business cards with most engineers asking them to call if they had any questions or anything unforeseen came up.  I heard hai from many of them so I assumed they understood an would contact me should they have any issues.  We spent the first two days in presentations of the new technology and doing hands-on conversions. When asked if they got it, again the response was hai. which I interpreted as meaning they understood the technology.

 

Then we spent two days working in country teams, each team putting together a plan for their country.  I went between teams, working with them as they laid out their plans, encouraging them to prioritize the work and develop aggressive timelines.  Then we met on the last day together again as a large group and went over the timeline.  I asked "can we do this?" and heard "Hai" from many of those attending. This lead me to believe they were onboard with the project.

 

Six months later, there was no progress in the Asia-Pacific region.  A year later, as the other regions were nearing completion, the technology head of the Asia-Pacific region contacted the global head of technology engineering, questioning the need and reasons for expending the manpower on the conversion.

 

The project in Asia was a failure.

What went wrong?  Technically, nothing.  Socially, everything.

 

First, I had not scheduled to meet in advance of the conference with the region's technology director to go over the plan, the need for it, and how he could benefit most from it.  In short, since I had a global mandate, I assumed everyone would be fully onboard with the program.

 

Second, I managed to insult most of the engineers present when I first met them. 

In America, we typically exchange cards with one hand and place the received card in our pocket or deck of cards with a brief glance, to be sorted and entered into a contact database later. 

In Asia, the exchange of business cards takes on many aspects of a ritual.  The card is presented two handed with the writing towards the recipient.  The recipient takes the card and comments about something on it - title, location, company, etc.  Then the recipient will reciprocate, presenting their card.

---

It was several years before my next opportunity to work with colleagues from Japan.  On that next trip, I arranged to have breakfast with the regional manager right after arriving in Tokyo.  We exchanged cards, talked about our families, and he asked if I played golf.  When I acknowledged I did, he said to stop by his office before going into the meetings. 

I stopped by and stuck my head in.  He motioned me to close the door and sit.  First, he told me that he had rescheduled the first meeting, set for that morning (actually scheduled to start in a few minutes) until the afternoon.  He then began going through the information, including my presentations.  At the end, he asked me how I saw this benefiting the region in general and his engineers specifically.

All told, we spent over two hours together in that meeting.  At the end, he asked me to see his administrative assistant to have them extend my hotel stay and reschedule my flight.  As I did that, the admin asked me what my shoe size was and confirmed I was right handed. I asked why and over a shocked look I found out that Thursday (the day I was originally leaving) I would be playing golf with Mr. Tamuri and two others.  I was also asked to stop back by 10 minutes before the meeting, now scheduled for 1 pm.

At 12:50 I was at Mr. Tamuri's door.  He stood up and walked me to the conference center.  On the way, he asked me to wait outside the door for a moment until he called for me.  Then he proceeded to open the meeting and present the opening slides that explained what we were going to do and why.  Finally, he introduced me, informing the people attending that I had been sent at his request to aid the regional engineers in this project.  During the next three days we went over the plan and built a schedule. 

And not once was the word Hai spoken.

The engineers in Asia must have worked long hours and many weekends, because this project finished 7 weeks ahead of schedule,  and 3 weeks ahead of any other region.

So what does hai mean to me now?

Hai means I acknowledge you have spoken - nothing more.